JadeW

You know that hairstyle that you loved back in the day… and never thought would come back in style? Mine are boho braids, otherwise known as pick-and-drop braids. If you're unfamiliar, they're micro base braids at the crown, which cascade into loose waves or bouncy curls from around three inches down. Stars like Beyoncé and Brandy popularised the look back in the '90s and early 2000s, and much to my surprise, the style is trending again — but with a modern twist.

In this article:

• What are boho braids?
• Meet the Experts
• How do boho braids differ from pick-and-drop braids
• What to know before you get Boho braids
• How to prep your hair for Boho braids
• How to maintain boho braids
• Boho braids inspo

What are boho braids?

On TikTok, the style is called boho braids and goddess braids interchangeably, with those hashtags racking up nearly 42.9 million and 717.5 million views respectively. This wispy take on box braids is essentially an upgrade on a classic Black protective hairstyle that immediately caught the attention of those who grew up in the '90s.

Much like pick-and-drop braids of the past, you'll see the 2023 version starts with a base of braids – but the length is even longer than before. In the past, the style was executed with synthetic hair (mainly because that's what was widely available), but that comes with its fair share of knotting and matting. Now, stylists prefer using human hair, which can be “more versatile and less harsh for this style,” says hairstylist Larry Sims.

It's often hard to pinpoint where trends begin, but: “Zoë Kravitz was an inspiration for a lot of us to go back to this style,” says London-based hairstylist and braider Jacinta Rutana. And in the past year, celebrities like former first lady Michelle Obama and Jordyn Woods have put their own twist on the free-spirited style.

Travel braider Shanna St. Cyr says boho braids are her most requested style lately. The reason she thinks it's so popular among her clients? “You can get a weave look without an actual weave install.” That cuts down on cost and allows you to experiment with various hairstyles that would be otherwise difficult to wear with a weave.

Here's how the style has evolved and what to know if you plan on trying boho braids for yourself.

• Larry Sims is a hairstylist and the co-founder of Flawless by Gabrielle Union
• Jacinta Rutana is a London-based hairstylist and braider
• Shanna St. Cyr of Tropix Braids is a travel braider

How do boho braids differ from pick-and-drop braids

Boho braids have taken the foundation of pick-and-drop braids and elevated the style. The biggest change: the length of the base braids. Pick-and-drop braids were usually about three inches long, with loose waves or curls at the ends of the braids. The idea was to have the braids all but hidden at the crown of the head, creating the illusion that the hair was growing out of the scalp.

Boho braids, on the other hand, put more emphasis on the braids instead of trying to hide them. The loose curls are incorporated throughout the braids at different lengths, which makes for an even blend of braids and tendrils.

Before, stars wore the style in waves and even long, straight wispy layers (Beyoncé was the Queen of this, circa 2003). Now the texture is almost always curly, which blends with the braids more easily than straight pieces would.

Boho braids also mainly use human hair, whereas pick-and-drop featured synthetic hair. These braids are one of the most popular ways to get flowing hair extensions that look natural. And by using human hair, there is newfound versatility. According to Sims, the look can be styled with heat and there is less matting. If you're partial to synthetic hair, Runata says you can still use it, but it works best in just the braids, and not the loose hair.

What to know before you get Boho braids

If you want a really professional finish and to avoid too much hair breakage, this protective style should be reserved for the salon. Rutana explains the look requires a high skill level. “I use a knotless technique, so it's easy on your natural hair to ensure there’s not as much breakage,” she says, which it isn't easy to do on yourself.

Working with human hair (which is recommended for this style) “can be challenging due to the softer texture of the hair which makes it hard to grip,” says Rutana, so if you're looking for an impeccable finish on the first go, it's probably best to leave it to a professional.

It's also a good idea to consult with your stylist to establish if they will provide the hair or if you need to source it ahead of your appointment. Many salons don't provide hair extensions, so oftentimes, you'll need to visit your local beauty supply store ahead of time. Stylists can usually advise on what hair to buy — Runata loves Bohotress braiding hair which is exclusively available online in the UK.

How to prep your hair for Boho braids

Whether your hair is in its natural state or has a treatment like a relaxer or texture release, you still want to arrive at your appointment with washed and blow-dried hair. Some stylists offer this service – but if it's unavailable, a simple shampoo to cleanse your hair and scalp followed by a conditioning treatment to moisturise and a thorough blow dry is all you need.

Before braiding, do make sure your hair is thoroughly dried to prevent mould or mildew. Gently detangle it with a wide-tooth comb or fingers to remove any knots. Consider stretching your hair using a blow dryer on low heat or braiding it overnight to reduce shrinkage, to make it easier to work with. It's also recommended you apply a lightweight leave-in conditioner all over, to protect the hair through all the manipulation and tension from the braiding.

How to maintain boho braids

Maintaining the silkiness and shine of the boho braids, especially when using human hair, involves a combination of proper care and attention. A weekly refresh should suffice in prolonging the wear of boho braids.

To keep your braids looking their best, wrap your hair in a silk or satin scarf or bonnet at night to minimise friction and prevent frizz. Apply a light hair oil or serum to the braids to maintain shine and keep the hair moisturised. Avoid much further manipulation, as constant touching can lead to fraying and loss of shine.

Runata recommends combining a mixture of water and leave-in conditioner in a spray bottle and misting the braids at least once a week. When washing, dilute sulfate-free shampoo in water, apply the mixture to the scalp, and gently cleanse without disturbing the braids.

For synthetic braids, use a mild shampoo and cold water to wash, and let it air dry to maintain texture. To prolong the life of synthetic hair, avoid excessive heat styling and store your braids in a loose twist-out, wrapping them in a silk or satin scarf before bed. To keep the style looking its best, Runata recommends a touch-up after four weeks.

Boho braids inspo:

A version of this story was originally published on Allure.

For more from GLAMOUR's Beauty Writer Shei Mamona, follow her on Instagram @sheimamona.

ncG1vNJzZmivp6x7qLjApqauqp2WtKLGyKecZ5ufY8Kse8Crq6KbnJp8o7vHqGSbqpGesbQ%3D