Review: Chiltern Firehouse, London | Glamour UK
By Claire Matthiae
Restaurant: Chiltern Firehouse
Where? One Chiltern Street, Marylebone, London, W1U 7PA
Greeted in the candlelit courtyard by doormen in top hats, this Victorian-gothic building has been transformed from an old fire station (one of the oldest in London, built in 1889) into one seriously glamorous restaurant, and soon-to-be-opened hotel. The mastermind behind it? American hotelier Andre Balazs of LA Chateau Marmont fame. This is his UK debut - no wonder everyone's talking about it.
The look… You know you're in a fashion hotspot when even the hostesses are dressed in designer gear - their bright, colour block Emilia Wickstead jumpsuits will give you wardrobe envy. While handsome barmen in gleaming white suit jackets serve champagne in the tightly packed bar. The décor has a New York vibe about it with white tiled walls and industrial touches, including the open kitchen (home to top chef Nuno Mendes). But it also feels warm and intimate with Persian-style rugs and large mirrors reflecting plenty of soft candlelight.
The food… Waiters swarm about being impossibly attentive as that internal battle over what starter to order begins (starters range from about £9-£14). Will it be the grilled octopus with aubergine and mushrooms, or the squab (that's young pigeon) with warm grains, chicory and red currants? Nope, Firehouse Caesar of crispy chicken skin, crunchy cos lettuce and parmesan shavings wins. And it's a cracking start.
Next, a monkfish main course with puffed barley and fennel - all set on a round wooden plate. The attention to detail is undeniable, without feeling stuffy, and the fleshy monkfish melts in the mouth. Mains prices range from £14 for courgettes and mushrooms in creamy oat risotto with spinach and herbs, to £34 for wood grilled aged ribeye steak.
By pudding the drinks and laughter are flowing so well, our ability to make any dining decisions at all goes out the window. "One of everything, please!" Right then. But these are desserts too good not to be shared. You'll be left dreaming about the baked pear and dark chocolate tart.
The crowd… It's not like us to celeb drop (ahem) but… we spot Bono chatting to Noel Gallagher at the bar. Stella McCartney at a table to our left. And Mr Balazs himself. This place is seriously A-list and it's hard to resist craning your neck to see who will walk through the door next.
Don't miss… The secret den through the loos. Push the full-length mirror (a hidden door with 'men and cigarettes' scrawled on it in what looks like red lippy) and you'll feel like you're walking through the Narnia wardrobe.
The perfect +1 is… +4! This is a place to go with a group of your best girlfriends - and your most fabulous heels.
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